It’s going to be a hot week! Most of this week’s recipes are quick and cool. The exception is the Zwiebelkuchen (German/Alsatian onion tart of sorts), an old family recipe I grew up with and love. It’s worth the effort and makes a lot so you can have several meals taken care of in one go. Enjoy!

Recipes

Fresh Salsa
Jalapeno Notes
Zwiebelkuchen
Cilantro Yogurt Sauce
Beet and Sweet Onion Salad
Chopped Kale Salad with Grated Carrots, Jalapeno and Sesame
Summer Squash with Green Lentils, Parsley and Bacon
Summer Squash with Tomatoes, Basil and Lemon

Fresh Salsa

You have all the ingredients for the sweetest, freshest and most savory salsa in your share this week. I made this tonight for a crowd and it was devoured and enjoyed even by those who purportedly don’t like spicy salsa. The jalapenos are so flavorful and subtly spicy.

2 large tomatoes, washed, cored and finely chopped or diced
½ – 1 jalapeno, finely minced (de-seed the pepper if you’re unsure of your comfort with the heat level—my guess is that you can leave the seeds in, for at least part of it)
2 tablespoons, finely chopped Walla Walla Sweet
¼ cup cilantro, well washed and dried and chopped
1 small clove garlic, minced and then mashed with some coarse salt and the side of a chef’s knife into a paste (or just mince)
Sea salt

Mix everything together well and adjust seasoning with salt. Serve with chips or with fish tacos or any kind of tacos or with quesadillas or as a side for grilled fish or vegetables or pretty much anything.

Jalapeno Notes

The jalapenos can be added cooked or raw to many of the dishes in this week’s packet—the cilantro yogurt sauce, the kale and carrot salad in raw form and cooked with the onions in the Zwiebelkuchen, the German onion tart. The peppers adds a lovely depth and subtle heat.

Summer Squash with Lentils, Parsley and Bacon

This is basically last week’s recipe with quickly seared summer squash instead of beans. It’s better than the bean version. It’s a new favorite in my household.

Lentils get overlooked a bit in the summer but I especially love salads with small green lentils in the summer. You can make them ahead of time and then have a robust, room temperature dish for whenever you need it.

1 cup small French green lentils or other small lentils that keep their shape when cooked
Splash of olive oil
1 Walla Walla Sweet, diced
4 cups summer squash, cut into small chunks –for zucchini I quarter them lengthwise and then cut them into 1/3-inch chunks
4 slices bacon, diced
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1-2 tablespoons sherry vinegar (or more red wine vinegar if you don’t have sherry vinegar)
2 small-ish garlic cloves, crushed and then minced
3 (or more) tablespoons good olive oil
Sea salt and pepper (to taste)
¼ cup chopped parsley (or cilantro)

Cook the lentils until tender, about 15-20 minutes (this will vary depending on the kind of lentil you have). You want them to be tender but keep their shape so check frequently.

Drain them and immediately toss them with the vinegars, garlic and olive oil. Set aside.

In the largest skillet you have, heat a splash of olive oil over high heat and add the bacon and onion and sauté for 5-7 minutes, stirring frequently. You want the onion softened and bacon rendered but not crisp. Remove the onions and bacon from skillet and add to lentils.

Add another splash of olive oil and the summer squash and a few generous pinches of salt. Cook the squash over high heat for about 7-8 minutes until browned and beginning to soften.

Add the warm squash to the lentils along with the chopped parsley and the additional olive oil. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and/or vinegar.

Zwiebelkuchen

This is the one more involved recipe in this packet but it’s wonderful for picnics or potlucks since it’s great at room temperature and keeps and travels well. And it makes a lot so you can have dinner, and a few lunches out of it.

This is a Southern German style tart/quiche/pizza is a mainstay in my family. This can easily be made vegetarian by omitting the bacon. You can also add herbs (parsley and/or chives are particularly good) and change the cheese to suite your taste or what you have on hand. And as noted above, you add jalapeno for an unorthodox but excellent twist.

Crust:

Scant 2 cups all-purpose flour (I’ve also used half whole-wheat pastry flour and half all-purpose and feel free to play around with other flour combinations)
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ tsp Kosher salt
3 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil
2 tablespoons water
½ cup sour cream or plain, whole-milk yogurt
1 egg

Topping:

2 lbs, or slightly more Walla Walls Sweets (can supplement with regular onions if you need), sliced into ¼-inch half rounds
1 – 2 jalapenos, minced (seeds and all for more heat or deseeded for a subtler flavor)
Olive oil
3 ounces bacon, diced (or ½ cup of chopped parsley –added to the custard mix right before baking, see headnote)
4 ounces grated sharp cheddar, Emmental, etc.
2 eggs
½ cup sour cream or plain, whole-milk yogurt
Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

For the crust, in the medium bowl beat the egg with the oil, water and sour cream (or yogurt) until just mixed. In another bowl mix the flour, salt and baking powder and stir into the wet ingredients with a fork or wooden spoon. Mix well – you may want to use your hands at this point—until it’s smooth. Place the dough in a 13 x 18 rimmed baking sheet (sheet pan) and roll it out to fit the pan. You may have to stretch it a bit with your hands to get it into the corners. It does not need to come up the sides at all.

For the filling, slice the onions in half and then into ¼ thin half rounds. Thinly coat a large sauté pan or pot with olive oil and heat it over med-high heat. Add the bacon and cook for a few minutes until the fat is partially rendered. Add the onions and a few generous pinches of salt. Cover and stir occasionally (and adjust heat if onions stick and brown) until the onions are quite soft and some of the liquid they’ve released has cooked off. This will take between 15 to 25 minutes depending on your onions. Ideally they don’t brown but no harm done if they do.

In a large bowl, beat the eggs with the sour cream (or yogurt), a few grinds of pepper. Add the grated cheese and the onion bacon mixture. Spread on the crust and bake for 35 to 45 minutes until the top is golden and the edges are starting to brown.

Eat warm or at room temperature. This is even better reheated the next day in a hot cast iron pan in a little bit of olive oil.

Cilantro Yogurt Sauce

I could put cilantro on anything. I especially love it made into a sauce by tossing ½ a bunch or more into a food processor (or chopping finally) with a ¼ – 1/3 cup of Greek yogurt (or plain, whole milk yogurt), some minced garlic, some lemon zest, salt, pepper and a little olive oil. This is delicious on any grains or fish or with steamed or roasted veggies.

Beets and Sweet Onions with Cilantro Yogurt Sauce

The above sauce is lovely drizzled over or tossed with boiled or roasted beets and thinly sliced sweet onions.

Chopped Salad with Kale, Carrots, and Tahini Yogurt Dressing

This is a robust, bright salad that is begging for seasonal adaptations depending on the greens at hand. I could also imagine it being delicious tossed with some cooked, cooled soba noodles. And it’s just as good if not better the next day.

6 cups lacinato kale, thoroughly washed and cut into ¼-½ ribbons
2 carrots, grated (on large hole of box grater)
1 beet, scrubbed, peeled and grated (on large hole of a box grater—be careful it makes a mess)
½ cup sweet onions, thinly sliced
½ jalapeno, minced (with or without seeds depending on how spice you like things)
2-3 tablespoons toasted sesame or sunflower seeds (or 1/3 cup toasted sunflower seeds)

Dressing

2 tablespoons Tahini (sesame paste)
2-3 tablespoons Greek Yogurt (or sour cream or mayonnaise)
1-2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard
1 small clove of garlic, minced or mashed with side of knife
Juice of 1 lemon (or lime)
Salt and pepper

Put all vegetables in a large bowl, excepting the beets. Whisk dressing ingredients until emulsified and smooth. Taste for seasoning. The dressing should be quite strong since it’s going to dress a lot of veggies. If the dressing is too thick thin it out with a little water. Toss veggies with dressing, mix well and adjust seasoning. Add the grated beets last and toss lightly

Summer Squash with Tomatoes, Basil and Lemon
–inspired by Tender by Nigel Slater

This is a new favorite summer squash dish. The addition of the lemon juice is critical. It calls for a handful of basil leaves and I’m guessing many of you have a basil plant in a pot or garden close by.

3-4 medium summer squash, well washed and cut into thick fingers, homemade French-fry sized
½ a Walla Walla Sweet or other onion, diced or thinly sliced (optional)
2-3 tablespoons olive oil
2-3 medium to large tomatoes, roughly chopped
Handful of basil leaves, roughly torn
Salt and pepper
½ a lemon

Heat the oil in a large skillet or sauté pan and add the onion and squash and cook, fairly undisturbed for 6-8 minutes over medium to medium-high heat until the vegetables begin to soften.

Add the tomatoes, the basil, salt and pepper, and a good squeeze of lemon juice. Stir and then cover with a loose fitting lid and let simmer for 10 -12 minutes until the squash is completely tender. Adjust seasoning and serve with good crusty bread to mop up the juices.

The first of the season’s tomatoes are here. I doubt you need much inspiration for these. Tossed with the lettuce and a light vinaigrette and some thinly sliced Walla Walla’s, it’s summer on a plate. And if you have a proclivity for hamburgers then those Walla Wallas, tomatoes and lettuce make the perfect burger. And one my favorite summer suppers is the modified Nicoise Salad. It can be adapted all summer long, is beautiful, cool and fortifying. Enjoy!

Recipes

Parsley and Pumpkin Seed Pesto
Cook-With-What-You-Have Nicoise Salad
Grilled/Broiled Summer Squash with Parsley Garlic Sauce (Salsa Verde)
Green Curry Summer Squash Soup
Beans with Lentils, Parsley and Bacon or Prosciutto
Savory Bread Pudding with Chard 

Parsley and Pumpkin Seed Pesto

This is a wonderful thing to do with a big beautiful bunch of parsley. You must toast the pumpkin seeds first—it takes just about 5 minutes in a dry heavy skillet on medium-high heat, shaking often to ensure even toasting. The seeds begin popping when they’re just about done. Be careful not to burn and cool before using.

I use a food processor for this but if you don’t have one you can make a slightly less uniform version by grating the cheese finely and minced/chopping everything else as by hand as finely as you can.

I use this pesto spread on crostini or sandwiches. I stir some into the egg yolk mixture for deviled eggs. I add it to scrambled eggs. I stir it into Greek yogurt for a sauce or topping for most anything. I dilute it a little (water, cream, more oil and/or lemon juice) for a dressing for grain or bean salads. …And of course you can serve it with pasta like basil pesto. Be sure to thin it with a bit of hot, starchy pasta cooking water in  that case.

1 bunch parsley, thoroughly washed and tough stems cut off and discarded. Please don’t worry about picking the leaves off the stems. All you need to do is cut off the bottom, stem ends of the bunch.
2 medium cloves garlic, minced
1-2 ounces Parmesan (or aged Asiago called Asiago Stella available at Pastaworks/City Market), cut or broken into small-ish chunks
½ cup toasted, cooled pumpkin seeds (see headnote)
1/3 cup good-tasting olive oil (or more)
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
Squeeze of lemon juice (to taste)

Process the cheese in the food processor until quite fine. Add minced garlic and toasted pumpkin seeds and process again until the seeds are finely chopped. Add the parsley and process again until its very finely chopped. Add oil, sea salt and pepper. Pulse a few times and taste. Adjust for salt and add just a touch of lemon juice. You don’t want a pronounced lemon flavor, but just a little to brighten everything up.

Cook With What You Have Salade Nicoise

I take the idea of Salade Nicoise and adapt it all summer long, i.e. take fresh and/or cooked vegetables, good Oregon Albacore (usually canned), and barely hardboiled eggs, drizzled with an herby dressing, as a complete, fabulous dinner.

For this week’s share you could use the beans, new potatoes, Walla Walla Sweets and parsley (in the dressing). You could also grill some of the summer squash and add it to the mix and you can grill the onions or slice them very thinly and leave them raw.

Quantities are of course to be adapted to suit your needs and can be varied in all ways. You just want enough dressing for everything to scale that up if you’re using more vegetables.

Serves 4

¾ lb green (Burgundy or yellow) beans, trimmed
¾-1 lb potatoes, scrubbed and cut into thumb-sized chunks
1 large tomato, cut into 3/4-inch wedges
Summer squash, sliced and broiled or grilled (see headnote)
4 eggs, hardboiled (but just barely –see note below)
½ or more of a Wall Walla Sweet, sliced thinly (or more onion, grilled—see headnote)
1-2 cans albacore (5-6 oz) or fresh if you have it, seared

Dressing:

10 sprigs parsley (more or less), finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
2 tablespoon red wine vinegar (more to taste)
1 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard
5 tablespoons good-tasting olive oil (more to taste)
2 tablespoons mayonnaise (or aioli if you happen to have some made) or Greek yogurt
Salt and pepper

My favorite way to hard-boil eggs is to bring the water to a boil and then immediately turn off the heat and set your timer for 8-9 minutes. Then drain the eggs and run under cold water. This will give you perfectly cooked eggs with firm but slightly creamy yolks—no chalkiness or gray lines in site. Eggs like this are perfect for this kind of a composed salad. Peal eggs and cut into quarters.

Bring a large pot of water to which you’ve added 1-2 tablespoons kosher salt to a rapid boil. Put in the beans and brink back to a boil as quickly as possible. Cooking really brings out the flavor in green beans and after 5-6 minutes you loose the “squeak” that you get if they’re not quite done enough. Drain them after 5-6 minutes and run under cold water. I don’t bother with the ice-bath method but you certainly can.

Cook potatoes until tender.

Arrange the quartered eggs, beans, potatoes and onions and squash (if using) on a large platter. Put the tuna, broken up into pieces in the center. Mix all dressing ingredients together well and drizzle over everything. Serve with good crusty bread.

Grilled/Broiled Summer Squash with Parsley Garlic Sauce (Salsa Verde)

This takes a little time but is delicious and beautiful and lovely on a hot day.

3 medium zucchini or other summer squash, thinly sliced long-ways (if zucchini) about ¼-inch thick
Olive oil for brushing squash
½ bunch parsley, finely chopped
1 medium to large clove garlic, minced
1-2 tablespoons lemon juice
¼ – 1/3 cup good olive oil
Salt & freshly ground pepper

You can cook the squash one of three ways. You can brush with olive oil and broil on sheet pan, flipping once browned on one side until slightly browned and tender on both sides. You can grill on the barbeque or you can cook in a large heavy skillet on the stovetop in just a touch of olive oil. All work great. The stovetop is probably the fastest. However you cook them, once cooked spread them out on a platter in a single layer.

Mix all the salsa verde ingredients together, taste and adjust seasoning. Then drizzle/spread sauce over squash. Let rest for 15 minutes if you can before serving. Serve at room temperature.

Green Curry Summer Squash Soup
–adapted from Super Natural Everyday by Heidi Swanson

4-5 medium zucchini or other summer squash, sliced into 1/2 inch slices
1/2 a medium onion, thinly sliced
4-5 small potatoes, scrubbed well but no need to peel and cut into small dice
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 – 2 heaping teaspoons green curry paste (Thai and True brand or Mae Ploy or homemade!)
1 can full fat coconut milk
2 cups vegetable broth or stock
1/4 cup Thai basil or regular basil leaves, packed and roughly chopped (saving a bit for garnish)
Salt
Squeeze of lime juice to taste (optional)

Cooked white or brown, long grain rice

Put a large soup pot on medium high heat. Add about 3-4 tablespoons of the solid part of the coconut milk that makes up about the top fourth of the can, to the hot pan. Add the 1-2 teaspoons (depending on how much heat you want) of green curry paste and mash it up with the back of a spoon and blend it into the coconut milk. Fry this mixture for a couple of minutes until it becomes fragrant.

Add the sliced onion and fry for a few minutes until it softens. Add the squash and potatoes, several generous pinches of salt and cook, stirring often for 3-4 minutes. Then add the garlic, the remainder of the coconut milk and the broth. Bring to a boil, then turn down and simmer for about 10 minutes until the vegetables are tender. Add most of the basil (reserving some for a garnish) and cook for another minute or two. Adjust seasoning and add a squeeze of lime juice, if using.

Serve hot over rice and garnished with more basil.

Beans with Lentils, Parsley and Possibly Prosciutto

Lentils get overlooked a bit in the summer but I especially love salads with small green lentils in the summer. You can make them ahead of time and then have a robust, room temperature dish for whenever you need it. You want to cook the beans well for this recipe, getting them a bit browned in the pan.

You can add pork in one of two ways—in the form of diced bacon that you sauté with the onion and beans or in the form of thinly sliced prosciutto you have on the side—to this dish or not at all. If you don’t and if you do have some walnut oil, use that for the dressing.

1 cup small French green lentils or other small lentils that keep their shape when cooked
½ – 3/4 lb Burgundy or Yellow Beans, washed, trimmed and cut into 1-2 inch lengths
4 slices bacon, diced or 3 ounces prosciutto thinly sliced
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1-2 tablespoons sherry vinegar (or more red wine vinegar if you don’t have sherry vinegar)
2 small-ish garlic cloves, crushed and then minced
3 (or more) tablespoons good olive oil
½ cup finely diced Walla Walla Sweet (or more to taste)
Sea salt and pepper (to taste)
¼ cup chopped parsley

Cook the lentils until tender, about 20 minutes (this will vary depending on the kind of lentil you have). You want them to be tender but keep their shape so check frequently.

Drain them and immediately toss them with the vinegars, garlic and olive oil. Set aside.

Meanwhile, cook the beans with the diced bacon (if going that route) in a large skillet over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. You want to get the beans tender and a bit caramelized.

Toss the warm beans and bacon with the dressed lentils, season generously with salt and pepper and stir in the parsley. Taste and adjust seasoning. If you are serving this with prosciutto, omit the bacon and serve prosciutto on the side with some good, crusty bread.

Savory Bread Pudding with Chard

I make this dish for dinner though I it seems to be a more typical brunch dish in America. I grew up eating eggs for dinner in a variety of forms and I highly recommend it!

This is another wonderful dish to have in your CSA cooking repertoire since you can add most any vegetable. You could add some of the summer squash from this week’s share too. And I always of bread (or bread ends of good crusty bread) either in the fridge or freezer and some eggs and milk which are the basic ingredients for this dish. You can also add sausage or leftover chicken if you like as well. You can make it drier with more bread or more custardy with more milk and/or eggs. The point is don’t feel you half to follow the below quantities and just use the technique to use up whatever you have or use your favorite veggies/herbs. It also makes excellent leftovers either served at room temperature or reheated.

5 eggs
3 cups milk
5-6 large slices bread, cubed (or various ends for a total of about 5-6 cups of cubed bread)
½ an onion, diced
1 bunch chard, washed, stems diced and leaves cut into ribbons
Couple of sprigs of parsley, chopped (optional)
Grated cheese (cheddar, or parmesan or crumbled feta or goat cheese) (optional)
Salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 375 (or 400 if you’re in a hurry). Cube the bread. In a large bowl whisk the eggs and milk. Salt and pepper generously and add the chopped herbs. Heat a little olive oil in a sauté pan, add onions and chard stems and sauté for about 7-8 minutes until softened. Add the chard and sauté for another 3-4 minutes. Add sautéed veggies to bread mixture. Pour into a 9 x 13 baking dish, top with grated or crumbled cheese, if using and bake for about 30 minutes, or until set and slightly browned on top. Again if you’re in a hurry turn on the broiler for the last few minutes to get the cheese and top nice and crusty.

Note: You can assemble the bread pudding in the morning and let it rest in the fridge all day before baking. It’s actually even better if the bread has time to really soak up the custard.

If you have any dill left over from last week, by all means make the Chilled Summer “Borscht” or pick up some dill at a market (along with a cucumber) because those beets you have this week would be perfect this way. Please refer back to the “Lettuce Management” notes from last week if you need green salad ideas. I’ve brought back the Green Curry that I know many of you enjoyed because it’s wonderful with beans and summer squash and lots of basil and you could add some of the beautiful torpedo onions too. And the Beet Green Tart is an elegant but fairly simple dish that is wonderful at room temperature for a light supper.

Recipes

Chilled Summer “Borscht”
Chopped Salad with Beans, Fennel
Thai Green Curry with Green Beans, Summer Squash and Basil
Grilled or Broiled Summer Squash
Beet Green Tart
Beet Sandwiches
Cabbage and Fennel Slaw (with Torpedo Onions)

Summer Borscht
–adapted from the Barefoot Contessa 2006 (Ina Garten)

This is a chilled, summery version of the classic beet soup. You need to chill it for a few hours or even better, over night. The flavor improves vastly so plan ahead.

5 medium beets (about 2 pounds without tops)
Sea salt
2 cups chicken stock or veggie bouillon broth
10 ounces sour cream, plus extra for serving
1/2 cup plain yogurt
1-2 tablespoon sugar (or bit more to taste)
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 teaspoons champagne or white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 cups medium-diced cucumber, seeds removed
1/2 cup diced torpedo onions
3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, plus extra for serving

Place the beets in a large pot of boiling salted water and cook uncovered until the beets are tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Remove the beets to a bowl and set aside to cool. Strain the cooking liquid through a fine sieve and also set aside to cool.

In a large bowl, whisk together 1 1/2 cups of the beet cooking liquid, the chicken stock, sour cream, yogurt, sugar, lemon juice, vinegar, 2-3 teaspoons salt, and the pepper. Peel the cooled beets with a small paring knife or rub the skins off with your hands. Cut the beets in small to medium dice. Add the beets, cucumber, scallions, and dill to the soup. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for at least 4 hours or overnight. Season, to taste, and serve cold with a dollop of sour cream and an extra sprig of fresh dill.

Chopped “CSA” Salad with Green Beans, Fennel, Feta, Lime, Basil and Sunflower Seeds
–loosely adapted from Smittenkitchen.com

You can use different vegetables as the season progresses. Cooked corn and fresh red peppers would both be great. Quantities are just suggestions so please adapt to your taste.

To bulk this up into a more rounded dish, you could add a cup or two of thinly sliced lettuce, 1 to 2 cups of cooked, cooled grains such as barley, quinoa or faro, or a cup or so of cooked black beans. In each case, it would be best to increase (possibly double) the dressing so you’ll be able to cover everything well.

And some diced roasted (or boiled) beets would be a wonderful addition to add at the very end.

Serves 4 as appetizers and 2 as more of a meal-sized salad

2 cups perfectly cooked beans (see below), cut into ½-3/4 –inch pieces
½ cup fennel cut into small dice
½ cup carrots cut into small dice (optional – if you have some leftover from last week)
1 cup cabbage, finely chopped
1/2 cup (2 ounces) crumbled feta or queso fresco
3 tablespoons torpedo onion, cut into small dice
1/2 cup or more, diced roasted beets (optional– see headnote)
1/3 cup well-toasted sunflower seeds, salted or unsalted
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 teaspoon coarse or Kosher salt, plus more to taste
1/4 teaspoon chile powder or 1/8 teaspoon each your choice combination of chile powder, cumin, cayenne or sumac
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
¼ cup chopped basil

Mix the vegetables, feta, onions, seeds and basil in a medium bowl. Whisk lime juice, olive oil, salt, spice(s) and black pepper in a small dish and pour over vegetables, tossing to evenly coat. If you’re adding beets sprinkle them over the top or very lightly toss at the end so the whole salad doesn’t turn pink–or let it turn pink!
Adjust with more salt, lime, etc.

Perfectly Cooked (Green or Yellow) Beans

Perfectly-cooked-green-beans is a rather subjective thing. But this is my idea of a perfectly cooked green bean for adding to salads (wonderful with boiled new potatoes and pesto) or just dipped in aioli or as part of a vegetable platter. Trim and wash your beans and cook them in lots of generously salted, rapidly boiling water for about 5-6 minutes. Cooking really brings out the flavor in green beans and after 5-6 minutes you loose the “squeak” that you get if they’re not quite done enough. You want a big pot of water so the water returns to a boil right after you add the beans and it’s important to salt the water well, about 1 ½ tablespoons of kosher salt for a 6 quart pot of water. Drain them after 5-6 minutes and run under cold water. I don’t bother with the ice-bath method but you certainly can. Put out onto a dry dishtowel and pat dry.

Thai Green Curry with Green Beans, Summer Squash and Basil

I have made variations of this Thai-inspired curry for 15 years. It is not an authentic Green Curry but a tasty, quick adaptation. It is suitable to a wide variety of vegetables: asparagus, new potatoes and green onions in the spring; summer squash and green beans in early summer; green beans and eggplant in late summer, and pumpkin, leeks and potatoes in the fall/winter. You can easily add chicken or tofu to it for an even heartier dish though it’s wonderfully rich and satisfying without as well.

Serves 4 (generously)

2-3 handfuls of green/yellow beans, washed and ends trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
2 cups summer squash, cut into ½ – ¾ -inch dice, more or less
1 medium potato, diced (optional)
1 – 2 inch piece of ginger, peeled and minced
2 cloves of garlic, minced
1 torpedo onion, cut in half and then sliced in thin half-rounds (optional)
1 1/2 heaping teaspoon (or to taste) green curry paste (Thai & True is a great local brand and Mae Ploy is also readily available brand)
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 -2 teaspoons fish sauce (can omit to make it vegetarian/vegan)
1 can coconut milk (full fat preferably but light will work too)
3 tablespoons basil, packed and roughly torn
Juice of half a lemon or lime (optional)
White or brown cooked Jasmine or other long grain rice

Heat wok or large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add ½ cup of coconut milk (use the thickest, part usually at the top of the can) and bring to a boil. Stir occasionally for 2-3 minutes. Add the curry paste, garlic, onion (if using) and ginger and fry it for about 3-4 minutes until it’s fragrant. Then add the remainder of the coconut milk plus ½ can’s worth of water, soy sauce and fish sauce. Bring to a boil and then turn down to a simmer and add the diced potato and simmer for about 3 minutes and then add the squash and beans and simmer for about 7 more minutes until the vegetables are tender. Adjust seasoning with a bit of salt or more soy sauce and/or fish sauce if needed and finish with a generous squeeze of lime or lemon juice, if using. Serve hot over rice.

Grilled or Broiled Summer Squash

Cut the patty pan squash (or whatever summer squash you have) into 1/2-inch think slices. Brush both sides with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Grill or broil until starting to blacken, flipping to brown both sides. Enjoy as is with a little chopped basil or toss with other raw and roasted veggies for lovely side dish with more herbs. Layer on a burger or sandwich of any kind. . . .sweet, simple, perfect!

Beet Green Tart

This tart is quicker than it might seem. It’s a wonderful use for your beet greens and onions in this week’s share. The tart dough comes together very easily and does not need to rest or be chilled before baking. I bake the tart, in its tin, on a pizza stone that gets preheated in the oven. That way the crust cooks quickly and well and doesn’t get soggy. The high oven temp usually ensures that it works anyway so don’t worry if you don’t have a pizza stone.

It’s also a great dish to make in advance since it’s excellent at room temperature and it transports well and can be cut into thin slices for an appetizer too.

Preheat the oven to 425ºF

1 recipe Tart Dough (recipe follows)
1 large bunch beet green, stems finely diced, leaves roughly chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 large or 2 smaller torpedo (or other) onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 eggs
1 cup whole milk
Zest of 1/2 small lemon (optional)
3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan (or Gruyère or just plain old cheddar if that’s what you have)
A few pinches of ground nutmeg (optional)

Heat the olive oil in a wide skillet; add the onion and beet green stems and cook over medium heat until the onions are translucent and softening. Add the garlic, and beet greens. Sprinkle a few pinches of salt. Turn the leaves over repeatedly so that they are all exposed to the heat of the pan, and cook until they are tender, about 5 minutes.

Make the custard. Beat the eggs; then stir in the milk, lemon peel (if using), grated Parmesan, and a few scrapings of nutmeg. Stir in the greens and onion mixture. Taste and season with salt and a few grinds of pepper. Pour the filling into the prepared tart shell and bake until the top is golden and firm, about 40 minutes.

Tart Dough
–adapted from David Lebovitz

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
(or ¾ cup apf and ¾ cup whole-wheat pastry flour)
4 1/2 ounces, about 9 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled, cut into cubes
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 large egg
2-3 tablespoons cold water

Make the dough by mixing the flour and salt in a bowl. Add the butter and use your hands, or a pastry blender, to break in the butter until the mixture has a crumbly, cornmeal-like texture.

Mix the egg with 2 tablespoons of the water. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and add the beaten egg mixture, stirring the mixture until the dough holds together. If it’s not coming together easily, add the additional tablespoon of ice water.

Gather the dough into a ball and roll the dough on a lightly floured surface, adding additional flour only as necessary to keep the dough from sticking to the counter.

Once the dough is large enough so that it will cover the bottom of a 10-inch tart pan and go up the sides, roll the dough around the rolling-pin then unroll it over the tart pan. “Dock” the bottom of the pastry firmly with your fingertips a few times, pressing in to make indentations. (I occasionally forget to do this with no ill effect so don’t sweat it if you forget.) If you don’t have a tart pan you can use a 9 or 10-inch pie pan too. The recipe for the dough is pretty generous so will fit a pie pan too.

Beet Sandwiches

Toast some good, crusty bread—rye bread if you have it would be classic. Spread generously with fresh goat cheese. Layer sliced roasted or boiled beets over the cheese. Sprinkle with sea salt, chopped dill (or mint or basil) and a drizzle of olive oil and freshly ground pepper.

Quick Cabbage and Fennel Slaw

This more simple technique than real recipe. Cut cabbage and fennel (however much you want) as finely as you can. Again, if you have some dill left over it would be great here. Mint or parsley would be good and the basil will be fine too if that’s what you have. Or skip the herbs. Finely slice some of torpedo onions.

Put all the vegetables (and herbs) in a big bowl. Make a dressing with lime or lemon juice (or champagne or cider vinegar), a little Dijon-style mustard, a tablespoon or two (or more if you’re making a lot of salad) of Greek yogurt or mayonnaise, a pinch or two of red pepper flakes, plenty of salt and pepper and a good splash of olive oil. Mix well and dress the veggies. Let rest for at least 15 minutes to let flavors marry. Adjust to taste.

Big packet of recipes this week with lots of fava bean ideas. And if you have the ingredients and half an inclination, please make the Portuguese soup with chard, beans, and cilantro! I also had a recipe for a carrot, faro and dill salad a few weeks ago which would be well-suited to this week’s share contents as well. Enjoy!

Recipes

Lettuce Management
Fava Bean Notes
Fava Beans with Yogurt and Herbs
Fava Bean Puree
Grilled Favas
Bacon, Fava Bean and Summer Squash Pasta
Portuguese Cilantro, Chard, White Bean and Bread Soup
Potato, Carrot, Onion and Bacon Fry
Dilled Carrot Spears

Lettuce Management

Staying on top of lettuce takes a little work. It’s completely worth it but here are a few tricks/methods I employ to keep things interesting on the salad front. . and keep those beautiful heads from going slimy and brown.

Washing and storing:

If you’re having a hard time staying on top of the lettuce, wash enough for two big salads soon after you pick up your share. My preferred way to store the washed lettuce is rolled up in clean, dishtowels. This is actually my preferred drying technique and it stores well that way, or a couple of days. You can put the rolled up lettuce-filled towels in a plastic bag and store in the fridge.

Crunchy additions:

Keep sunflower and/or pumpkin seeds, and/or walnuts or hazelnuts on hand. Pumpkin seeds take just a few minutes to toast in a dry skillet and sunflower seeds toast best in a 300 degree oven with some salt and olive oil. Walnuts and hazelnuts toast well in an oven—no salt or oil needed—as well. And they all add so much to salads.

If you have a slice or two of nice crusty bread that needs using you can toast it and then tear it into little pieces and add it your salad for a little chew and heft.

Dressing variations:

Add a couple of teaspoons of mayo (homemade or store bought) or Greek yogurt to a typical vinaigrette made with a little Dijon-style mustard, red wine vinegar or lemon juice, and a little good olive oil, s & p for a slightly creamier dressing. Dress your lettuce with this, add ½ cup of toasted sunflower seeds and some thinly sliced Walla Walla Sweets and you’re in business.

Add ground cumin, lime or lemon zest and some red pepper flakes to a typical vinaigrette or the creamy version above.

Add a couple of tablespoons of smashed avocado to your dressing. Lime or lemon juice and some minced garlic is a good combination for this one.

Fruity additions:

Add chopped sweet cherries or blueberries or peaches to your green salads. If you have a little goat cheese or feta, that would be a good combo as well.

Fava Bean Notes

Fava beans are a treat and can be a bit labor intensive. Typically people take the beans out of their squishy pods and then blanch the beans in boiling water for a few minutes and then pinch the skin off each individual bean. I did that for years and they are delicious that way—you can eat them as is with some olive oil and salt, add them to pasta or risotto or soup, etc. Or you can use the Middle Eastern method described below where you cook them in heavily salted water in their big pods and don’t shell each bean. It’s much less work and equally delicious though a very different kind of dish. Experiment and see what you like. I’ve almost exclusively switched to the latter method because it’s just so easy and delicious.

Fava Beans with Yogurt and Herbs

Serves ~4 as a side

A local farmer (Carol Boutard of Ayers Creek Farm) taught me about this method of cooking fava beans which eliminates the time consuming step of peeling each individual bean. This is a Persian/Iranian way of cooking favas that is not only easy but very nutritious since many of the nutrients are in the fava bean skins. This dish is good with parsley, but also basil, mint or cilantro or a combination.

2 pounds fava beans in their pods (or however much you have)
¼ cup kosher salt (yes, this is the right quantity, not a misprint)
1/3 cup Greek yogurt or plain, whole milk yogurt (or more if you want it saucier)
1/3 cup finely chopped parsley (I’ve never made this with dill but you might try it–not so traditional but probably good)
1 -2 teaspoons lemon juice (to taste)
Zest of one lemon, finely grated
1 medium clove garlic, minced (optional)
1 tablespoons olive oil
Salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste

Bring a six-quart (or larger) pot of water, to which you’ve added the salt, to a boil. Put the whole fava bean pods into the boiling water and bring back to a boil. Reduce the heat so the water stays at a rapid simmer and cook covered, until the pods start falling apart, between 20 and 30 minutes. Taste an individual fava bean after 20 or so minutes. If the skin on the bean is still a little tough keep cooking. If you have the time you can let the fava beans cool in the water once they’re tender. That further softens the skins. If not, drain off of the hot water fill pot of beans with cold water to speed the cooling.  Remove beans from pods without peeling each bean. The skin should be tender and the beans perfectly seasoned. Toss beans with the remaining ingredients. Adjust seasoning to your liking. Enjoy as a side dish or with crusty bread or tossed with cold pasta for a hearty salad.

Fava beans cooked this way (and without the dressing) are delicious with pasta and a bit of parmesan, with boiled potatoes and parsley. I’ve added them to Israeli couscous with some mint and grated, hard cheese.

Fava Bean Puree

Another of favorite things to do with fava beans is to puree them into a lovely, bright green spread.

This is just a simple technique so I won’t list precise quantities. Use as many favas as you’d like. You’ll end up eating it by the spoonful.

Pop the beans out of their pods and cook them in salted boiling water for about 2 minutes. Rinse in cold water and pinch the skin off each bean. Then cook the beans in some olive oil and a splash of water until soft, about 10 minutes.

Now you can either put them in a food processor or a bowl and use a wooden spoon to mash/process them with olive oil, a bit of minced garlic, a little minced rosemary or lots of freshly chopped mint, a bit of lemon juice and salt and pepper. Process or mash until all is well mixed and fairly uniform. Adjust seasoning with more oil, lemon, salt and pepper.

Spread the puree on toasted bread.

Ignacio Matta’s Grilled Favas
— from Food52.com

This recipe is brilliant. I first tried whole grilled fava beans (including the pods) at the Gathering Together Farm booth at a farmers’ market this season. Then I found this recipe, which is incredibly good. You can also just grill them with olive oil and salt and a squeeze of lemon with the same method. But all the extra goodies are worth it. And it seems like a lot of anchovies but it is well balanced. And if you don’t have a grill, a smoking hot cast iron pan works too—just turn your fan on high and open the windows.

Serves 4 to 6

1 pound fresh fava beans in their pods, the smallest ones you have
1 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon ground chile pepper
1 teaspoon picked rosemary
3 to 4 cloves chopped garlic
1/4 cup good olive oil, plus more to finish
2 tablespoons water
1 lemon
6 canned anchovies in oil, chopped finely
1 handful toasted bread crumbs (optional

Mix first 7 ingredients together in a large bowl. Toss to coat the fava pods, then place them on the grill over medium-high heat.

Grill favas for several minutes, until charred, then flip them over and char the other side, cooking until the pods seem about to open.

Remove pods from grill, return them to the mixing bowl, and squeeze the lemon over them. Toss the pods to coat. Check the seasoning, and add salt if necessary.

Add the anchovies to the bowl, mixing well.

Place the pods on a serving platter, drizzle to taste with olive oil, and sprinkle the bread crumbs on top, if using. Serve hot or at room temperature; eat with your hands or with forks and knives, depending on how messy you want to get.

Bacon, Fava Bean and Summer Squash Pasta

You might also call this “CSA pasta”. You can use the principle/technique with a variety of vegetables. This combination is very nice.

Remove the individual fava beans from from about 1 1/2 lbs of beans in pods and then blanch the beans in boiling water for a 3-4 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water and then pinch the skin off each individual bean.

1-2 tablespoons olive oil
2-3 slices bacon, diced
½ medium onion, diced
2 small-medium summer squash (or more if you’d like), cut in half lengthwise and then cut into thin half-rounds (or comparable size pieces if crookneck or patty pan squash)
Blanched and peeled fava beans from about 1 1/2 lbs of beans in pods
¾ lb penne, fusilli, rigatoni or other similarly shaped pasta
2 tablespoons thinly sliced basil
½-3/4 cup grated Parmesan (or other hard grating cheese)
½ cup pasta cooking water
Salt and pepper

In the largest skillet you have heat the olive oil over medium high heat. Add the onions and bacon and cook, stirring often for about 5 minutes. Add the squash and fava beans and several generous pinches of salt, sauté, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching. You can add a bit more oil or splash of water if it’s sticking or if the fava beans seem chalky.

You can either go the route of browning the vegetables and keeping them quite dry or add that splash of water and go for more of ragout—either way is good.

Meanwhile cook your pasta in a plenty of well-salted boiling water until al dente. Be sure to scoop out about ½ cup of pasta cooking water right before you drain the pasta.

In a large bowl (or the pasta cooking pot, mix the pasta, the bacon vegetable mixture, the parmesan, basil and about ¼ cup pasta cooking water. Mix very well, taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. You can serve with more basil and/or grated Parmesan if you like.

Portuguese Cilantro, Chard, White Bean and Bread Soup

This may not sound as outstanding as it is, but it is! I’ve adapted it a bit for the share this week and I keep hoping for a share when you get both cilantro and chard but you have the chard this week so pick up a bunch of cilantro if you’re out and about. The original recipe calls for lots of leeks but the Walla Walla Sweets this week are a good substitute.

If you have pre-cooked or canned white beans this comes together quickly. And it may not seem like soup weather but it’s ALWAYS the right weather for this soup in my home. It’s definitely in my top three all time favorite soups.

Serves four (with plenty of leftovers)

1 cup dried white beans or 3 cups cooked beans or 1 14 oz. can of cannelini or other white beans
2 tbs olive oil
1 – 2 large sweet onions, diced (about 2 cups, chopped)
5 large cloves garlic
6 cups vegetable or chicken stock
2 cups packed cilantro
one bunch chard, stems removed, coarsely chopped (about 4 cups)
sliced crusty bread (4 slices)
4 eggs
Salt and pepper, to taste

Soak beans for 8 hours, drain and then cook them in fresh water with one clove of the garlic until tender but still retaining their shape. Drain and set aside. You can also use canned beans.

Heat olive oil in a large pot. Sauté the onions in olive oil until limp. Add three cloves of garlic, minced. Continue sautéing until the garlic is soft but not brown about 2 minutes, lower heat as needed. Add four cups of the stock and set to a simmer. Add the beans and continue to simmer. Add the chard to the soup pot and cook for a few minutes. Blend the cilantro with the reserved 2 cups of bouillon in a blender. Add the cilantro mixture and season with salt and pepper. Bring mixture to a rapid simmer. Crack eggs into soup, cover and let poach about 5 minutes until the yolks and whites are just set.

While eggs are cooking toast the bread slices and rub with remaining garlic cloves. If you are not fond of garlic, rub lightly on only one side. Garlic lovers can go for both sides. Lay the bread in the bottom of a soup bowl. Ladle the soup over. Top with poached egg and drizzle with good olive oil and a few grinds of pepper.

Potato, Carrot, Onion and Bacon Fry

This is a technique anyone who grew up with a vegetable garden (or CSA share) probably employs. You could call it the cast iron skillet method—that’s what it was in my house growing up. As long as you have a heavy, large skillet you can cook most anything this way with tasty results. And when I’m short on time and veggies need using, it’s an easy choice. Tonight I did this with new potatoes, broccoli and bacon.

2 medium potatoes, well scrubbed but no need to peel and diced
2 carrots, well scrubbed (no need to peel) and thinly sliced on the bias
½ a large Walla Walla Sweet, cut in half lengthwise and then sliced into half-rounds
2-3 strips bacon, diced
Olive oil
Salt and pepper
Chopped dill for serving

Heat a little olive oil in a large, heavy skillet over high heat. Add the bacon and cook for just a minute or two then add the onions, carrots, potatoes and several generous pinches of sat. Stir well and cook over high heat for a couple of minutes undisturbed. Then turn the heat down a bit (you want to brown the potatoes and onions but not scorch) and cook stirring occasionally. Cover the pan if you’re in hurry. Ideally you’re not crowding the pan too much so the vegetables brown nicely and don’t steam. Use two skillets if you’re crowding things.

Cook until everything is tender to your liking. Top with chopped fresh herbs, dill in this case would be great, a fried or poached egg or nothing at all.

Dilled Carrot Spears

–adapted from Pickled, Preserving a World of Tastes and Traditions by Lucy Norris

makes 4 pints

This is a very simple pickled carrot recipe. These slightly spicy spears are lovely in a Bloody Mary and of course for snacking at any time or with cured meats and cheeses, etc.

4 cloves garlic, peeled and left whole
4 (1-2-inch long) hot red chili peppers (or ½ -1 teaspoon red pepper flakes)
4 sprigs fresh dill
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
2 lbs carrots, peeled and cut into spears
2 ½ cups distilled white wine vinegar
¼ cup coarse salt (kosher or pickling salt)
2 ½ cups water

Sterilize your pint jars and lids (according to manufacturer instructions or here for some tips: http://www.simplebites.net/canning-101-the-basics/)

In each pint-sized jar, place 1 clove garlic, 1 chili and I sprig dill, then pack the carrot spears vertically into the jars.

Combine the vinegar, salt, fennel seeds and water in a saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Pour the hot brine over the carrots, leaving at least ¼-inch free at the top of each jar. Remove any air bubbles by tapping the jar, then screw on the lids. Process the jars in a hot-water bath for 10 minutes to seal.

Allow the jars to cool, then store in a cool, dark place for at least 3 weeks before tasting.

Ah, green beans and summer squash! Summer produce is in full swing now. Early in the season I tend to keep things simple with these and I imagine you have your favorite recipes too. But do try the green beans with mint and feta if you have those two other ingredients. It’s a perfect combination. I didn’t give you any specific salad recipes but please look back at past week’s if you’re feeling uninspired. I’ve been ad-libbing constantly with the lettuce, mixing it with whatever I have on hand. This week it was previously cooked barley, lots of herbs and some avocado as well as with chickpeas, cilantro, and a cumin-lemon dressing and some feta. . . you get the idea!

Carrot, Harrissa and Feta Salad
Summer Squash Sauté
Summer Squash Fritters/Pancakes
Roasted Beets/Beet Salad Ideas (using cilantro)
Beet Pesto
Perfectly Cooked Green Beans (with Aioli)
Green Beans with Mint and Feta

Carrot Harissa and Feta Salad
–adapted from smittenkitchen.com

This salad is addictive. It calls for a bit of harissa which can be tricky to find. You can make your own (http://mideastfood.about.com/od/dipsandsauces/r/harissa.htm) or go to Pastaworks or Citymarket or the International Food Supply store on SE 76 and Stark. I also hear that Market of Choice carries it.

3/4 pound carrots, well-scrubbed and coarsely grated
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 crushed clove of garlic
1/2 teaspoon caraway seeds or about half as much, ground (I used seeds but ground them first)
3/4 teaspoon cumin seeds or about half as much, ground (I used the seed but ground them first, again)
1/2 teaspoon paprika
¾ – 1 teaspoon harissa (for a solid kick of heat; adjust yours to taste, and to the heat level of your harissa)
1/2 teaspoon sugar
3 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons cilantro, finely chopped
2 tablespoons fresh mint, finely chopped
100 grams feta, crumbled or chopped into bits

In a small sauté pan, cook the garlic, caraway, cumin, paprika, harissa and sugar in the oil until fragrant, about one to two minutes. Remove from heat and add the lemon juice and a pinch of salt. Pour over the carrots and mix. Add the herbs and mix. Leave to infuse for an hour and add the feta before eating.

Summer Squash Sauté

This is how I prepare the first of the season’s summer squash. And then I keep going back to it through the summer when I have little time and want something I love. It’s really hardly a recipe but it’s so, so good.

3 medium summer squash (or however much you want to use), sliced into bite-sized pieces, about 1/2 inch think
Salt
Olive oil

Heat 1-2 tablespoons of olive oil (don’t skimp on the oil) in a large skillet. When hot add the squash slices, several generous pinches of salt and cook over high to medium-high heat for a few minutes until the squash starts browning. Turn down to medium/medium-high and continue cooking until the squash is nice and browned and soft. It’s not the most beautiful dish but again, don’t be put off.

Adjust seasoning and enjoy with a little more good sea salt.

You can also add a finely minced clove of garlic a minute or two before the squash is done and and/or a few tablespoons of chopped basil. Both great additions but wonderful plain too.

Summer Squash Fritters
–Adapted from Michael Symon’s Live to Cook

These are pan-fried (so not very greasy at all) and absolutely delicious. They come together quickly and don’t be put off by grating the zucchini onto a dishtowel and wringing out the liquid. It’s easy and even fun to do and makes the fritters better.

3 medium zucchini or any kind of summer squash
1 ¼  teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint (optional but wonderful)
1 ½ tablespoons chopped fresh oregano, dill, or basil
1-2 scallions, white and green parts, thinly sliced on the bias (or a small piece of onion minced)
2 teaspoons minced garlic
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2-3 ounces feta cheese, coarsely chopped or crumbled (or grated sharp cheddar or other cooking cheese)
Grated zest of ½ a lemon (optional)
2 eggs
3 tablespoons cornstarch or all-purpose flour
Olive or Safflower oil, for pan-frying
½ cup Greek yogurt (optional)

Grate the zucchini/squash on the large holes of a grater onto a clean kitchen towel.  Sprinkle with the kosher salt and let it rest while you gather and prep the remaining ingredients.

Wrap the zucchini in the towel and wring as much liquid out of it as possible, discarding the liquid.  In a medium bowl, combine the zucchini, mint, dill, scallion, garlic, pepper, feta and zest.  Stir in the egg and flour (or cornstarch) and mix until well combined.

Add a scant tablespoon of oil to a large skillet.  Place the pan over medium-high heat.  Spoon about 3 tablespoons (about a ¼ cup) of batter into the pan. Depending on the size of your pan you should be able to fry about 3-5 at once.  Flatten them a bit with the back of a spatula and cook until the fritters are golden brown on each side, 4 to 6 minutes.

Transfer the fritters to plates and garnish with a dollop of Greek yogurt and a sprinkle of dill.

Roasted Beets/Beet Notes

I roasted two bunches of beets last week. I used them throughout the week in salads of many kinds. One day I had avocado and lots of cilantro and mixed that with lettuce; one day it was sunflower seeds, lettuce, green onion and feta. . .

Beets take a while to cook and a little goes a long way with beets. I tend to roast all the beets I have at once and then use a bit here and there in different preparations the following days. I like the flavor of roasted beets best, though boiled is quicker and good too.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

1 bunch beets, trimmed of beat greens and scrubbed but not peeled. If they’re large I cut the beets in halves or quarters.

Place the beets in a large sheet of aluminum foil. Sprinkle with a little water and then fold the foil over and tuck it into itself to create a nicely sealed package. Place packet on a sheet pan in the hot oven. Roast for about 45 minutes (depending on size of your chunks of beet).  A tester should easily pierce the beet.

Remove from oven, open package and let cool until you can handle them. Now the skin will come off easily. Peel beets. If you’d like toss them when still warm with a little red wine or sherry vinegar and a bit of salt. Beets do well with a little acidity and if you toss them in oil first the vinegar won’t get absorbed.

Now you can add them to salads of many kinds.

Beet Pesto

This is a delicious and beautiful variation on regular pesto. And if you have cooked or roasted beets on hand it’s very quick to pull together. I love it this time of year when I tend to assemble dinner out of a variety of cold things-salads, spreads, bread, cheese, etc. I love this on toasted crusty bread over some fresh goat cheese in particular. And you can top that lovely beet pesto crostini with some of the chopped, sautéed beet greens.

It also makes a perfect sandwich spread with feta or goat cheese and lots of lettuce and herbs. You can serve it over grains or roasted veggies or over pasta (it will get very pink!) mixed with some cooked greens.

1 1/2 cups cooked, diced beets
Generous handful of walnuts, toasted or raw (or hazelnuts or almonds)
1 small glove garlic
About ¼ -1/3 cup grated Parmesan or other hard cheese
¼ cup good-tasting olive oil
Salt and pepper
1-2 teaspoons lemon juice or 1teaspoon of cider, white wine or sherry vinegar

Process the cheese and nuts first until finely ground. Then add the remaining ingredients and process until smooth. Adjust seasoning to your liking.

To use with pasta, dilute with ¼ cup of hot pasta-cooking water before tossing with cooked pasta. Top with extra cheese.

Green Beans:

–With Aioli

Last week I included recipes for aioli and homemade mayonnaise and I’m including it here again because perfectly cooked green beans dipped in fresh aioli is a fleeting summer treat and I hope you’ll try it.

Perfectly-cooked-green-beans is a rather subjective thing. My idea of a perfectly cooked green bean for this preparation—dipped in aioli—is to cook them in generously salted, rapidly boiling water for about 5-6 minutes. Cooking really brings out the flavor in green beans and after 5-6 minutes you loose the “squeak” that you get if they’re not quite done enough. You want a big pot of water so the water returns to a boil right after you add the beans and it’s important to salt the water well, about 1 ½ tablespoons of kosher salt for a 6 quart pot of water. Drain them after 5-6 minutes and run under cold water. I don’t bother with the ice-bath method but you certainly can.  Put out onto a dry dishtowel and pat dry. Serve with aioli, some boiled or roasted potatoes on the side and some canned Oregon Albacore and you’re half way to a sort of bastardized Salade Nicoise.

— With Mint and Feta or Goat Cheese

Cook the beans as described above. Then toss with a handful of chopped mint, an ounce or two of crumbled feta or fresh goat’s cheese, good olive oil and salt. This is a wonderful summer salad.

Homemade Mayonnaise and Aioli

Homemade Mayonnaise takes about 5 minutes to make and keeps well for 4-5 days. It’s delicious and endlessly useful and adaptable. As a dip for perfectly steamed broccoli or cauliflower; as part of a dressing for potato salad, in deviled eggs, egg salad, on sandwiches, spread for grilled fish, dressing for anything.

Basic

2 egg yolks (organic or from a local farm if possible)
1 -2 teaspoons lemon juice (plus possibly a bit more to taste at the end) or white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard (optional)
Couple of pinches of kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper
About 3/4 cup, more or less, sunflower, safflower oil or canola or some neutral vegetable oil
About 1/3 – 1/2 cup good quality extra virgin olive oil

Whisk egg yolks with lemon juice and salt and pepper. Then very, very gradually start pouring in the oil in a very thin stream, whisking as you go. After you’ve incorporated about 1/4 cup of oil you can start speeding things up a bit. Continue until you have a consistency you like. It will get thicker and stiffer the more oil you add. Adjust salt and/or lemon juice if it needs more tang.

Note: if you just use olive oil the mayonnaise will be too bitter and strong. And if you are using a higher percentage of olive oil (than listed above) make sure it’s fairly light and fruity and not too strong.

Aioli

Mash 3-4 cloves of garlic (more if you like it stronger and you can use more cloves if it’s fresh, young garlic since it’s not as strong) with the salt in a mortar or on a cutting board with the side of a chef’s knife until you have a paste. Whisk the garlic paste into the yolks before you begin adding the oil. You can use a higher percentage of good olive oil (up to half) for aioli since it’s meant to be a more strongly flavored sauce. The garlic flavor in the aioli will get stronger as it sits so don’t be surprised if it’s a bit mild to start.

Traditionally aioli is served as a dip with raw and steamed vegetables. It’s delicious with steamed green beans, asparagus, broccoli, cauliflower, or carrots; chickpeas; potatoes; etc. It’s also wonderful with grilled foods, in a sandwich or spooned in soup or pasta.

With Herbs

After you’ve made the basic mayonnaise, add herbs you have on hand. Chives, cilantro, parsley, basil, chervil, tarragon, a little thyme or summer savory are all good. Or use a combination of the above. I use this kind of mayo for deviled eggs, egg salad sandwiches, as a spread on sandwiches, thinned down as a salad dressing, on roasted veggies, etc.